Monday, July 03, 2006
Melting Pot Stew
I was at first charmed then dismayed by the parochialism of this article in the SF Chronic. Where do I begin? Essentially the idea that Americans are only now becoming "adventurous eaters" is patently false. I would suggest that reporter check one of the menus at the Fairmont from about 1920. Then there's that whole thing about remaining pure to the culture. A ridiculous if not impossible concept in food as in any other aspect of culture. I mean we're talking SPAM and hamburger. Hawaiian cuisine seems to have part of its roots in army mess halls, so let's not go overboard on this too much. BAY AREA / More venues offer diners a taste of Hawaii, close by / Diverse population drawn to food that's similar to homeland's: "'I'm proud that the stuff I eat at home is getting popular in the mainstream,' said Eric Tao, 39, president of the Hawai'i Chamber and co-owner of Hukilau bar and restaurant in San Francisco, San Jose and Palo Alto. 'My only concern is that it doesn't get diluted from the true culture and spirit of Hawaii. The plate lunch started with all these different cultures, working together, bringing their own lunches and sharing.' "